Jumat, 07 Desember 2012

T-REC SEMARANG-komunitas reptil semarang-T-REC LIBRARY : SEKILAS TENTANG ULAR BOA CONSTRICTOR DAN BOA CONSTRICTOR CONSTRICTOR......ULAR BOA CONSTRICTOR & BOA CONSTRICTOR CONSTRICTOR.....PART 4





T-REC LIBRARY : BOA CONSTRICTOR DAN BOA CONSTRICTOR CONSTRICTOR......ULAR BOA CONSTRICTOR & BOA CONSTRICTOR CONSTRICTOR.....PART 4




...........diterjemahkan dari sumber berbahasa asing ( link sumber dibawah ini )







Captivity
This species does well in captivity, usually becoming quite tame. It is a common sight in both zoos and private reptile collections. Though still exported from their native South America in significant numbers, it is widely bred in captivity. When kept in captivity, they are fed mice, rats, rabbits, chickens and chicks depending on the size and age of the individual. Captive life expectancy is 20 to 30 years, with rare accounts of over 40 years, making them a long-term commitment as a pet. Proper animal husbandry is the most significant factor in captive lifespan, this includes providing adequate space, correct temperatures and humidity and suitable food items.
Young Boa constrictors should be started off in a relatively small enclosure, generally a secure plastic box or terrarium. This enclosure is then increased as the boa grows, as large open spaces are stressful for young snakes. Adults are often housed in 180 cm × 90 cm × 60 cm vivariums, however large females may need even larger enclosures. The general rule is that the minimum length of the enclosure should be two thirds of the snake's length. Snakes are generally kept in separate enclosures, but people have successfully kept females together. Male boas should not be kept together as they may fight. Glass, aquarium-style enclosures are seldom advised by snake keepers as they do not efficiently maintain temperature and humidity.
A thermal gradient should be provided, with a cool end and a warm end where the heat source should be located. The cool end should be maintained at 75–85°F (27–29°C), and the warm end at 86–92°F (30–33°C). Temperatures should not be allowed to rise above 95°F (35°C) or drop below 75°F (24°C). Cages that are too cold can cause many health problems, ranging from non-digestion of food to pneumonia. The necessary temperature can be provided by a heat mat, ceramic or specific light bulb or other alternative heating systems. All heat sources should be guarded, to prevent burns to the snake, and used in conjunction with a thermostat to prevent overheating. Humidity should be kept at 50%, and raised to 70% when the boa is in shed. However, high humidity should not be maintained for longer than a week, as this raises the risk of infections such as scale rot. Humidity levels can be maintained with a water bowl, and raised by adding more water bowls, moving the current water bowl closer to the heat source or misting the enclosure with a water sprayer. Boa constrictors do not need any special lighting, but should have approximately 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness every day to simulate a natural environment. Either a bulb or natural light can be used to provide such conditions.
Inside the enclosure a substrate, generally of newspaper or aspen shavings, must be provided. Untreated cedar or pine shavings are to be avoided as they contain oils that are toxic to snakes. A water bowl, large enough to provide adequate humidity and that the boa can coil within, must be provided. Another basic essential is adequate hides, at least two (one in the cool end and one in the warm end). Hides can be anything from empty plastic or wooden boxes to specially made hides from a reptile equipment retailer. The hides ensure that the snake feels secure, as stress can result in snakes refusing to eat. Shelves or secure branches are often provided so that boas can climb, but this is not an essential. Fake plants and other natural looking decorations are also commonly provided, but again they are not essential.
Young boas can be started on small to medium mice and then on to increasing size of rats. Most boas will never need a prey item larger than a large rat, however some big females (8 ft+) may require rabbits, guinea pigs and chickens. The general rule for feeding snakes is that a suitable prey item is the girth of the snake at its widest point, as with most snakes (including Boa constrictor) the left and right sides of the lower jaw are joined only by a flexible ligament at the anterior tips, allowing them to separate widely, while the posterior end of the lower jaw bones articulate with a quadrate bone, allowing further mobility, to allow the consuming of large prey. Young snakes can be fed once a week, to promote healthy growth. Adults only need to be fed once every month. Overfeeding (or powerfeeding) the snake can lead to a host of health problems later and can shorten its lifespan. It is natural for snakes to lose their appetite when going into shed as this is a stressful time for them, as such food should not be offered at this time. Water should be changed daily or every other day.
Boas should be handled regularly to maintain their docility. However, large boas should be handled by two people, as these snakes are incredibly powerful. Snakes should never be handled within 48 hours of feeding, due to a risk of regurgitation, or when in a shed cycle.



Meskipun masih diekspor dari aslinya di Amerika Selatan dalam jumlah yang signifikan, secara luas dibesarkan di penangkaran.di penangkaran, mereka diberi makan tikus, kelinci, ayam  tergantung pada ukuran dan usia individu. Harapan hidup secara Captive antara 20 sampai 30 tahun, dengan account yang jarang lebih dari 40 tahun,  sebagai hewan peliharaan. Pemeliharaan yang tepat adalah faktor yang paling signifikan dalam jangka hidup mereka, ini termasuk menyediakan ruang yang memadai, suhu dan kelembaban yang benar dan makanan yang cocok.
Constrictors Boa muda harus dimulai dari kandang yang relatif kecil, umumnya kotak plastik yang aman atau terarium. kemudian meningkat , sebagai ruang terbuka bagi ular muda. Boa dewasa sering ditempatkan di 180 cm × 90 cm × 60 cm vivariums, boa betina  mungkin perlu kandang yang lebih besar. Aturan umum adalah bahwa panjang minimum kandang harus dua pertiga dari panjang ular . Ular umumnya disimpan dalam kandang tersendiri, tapi ada yg  membuat boa betina  bersama-sama dalam satu kandang. Kaca, akuarium- jarang disarankan  karena  tidak efisien mempertahankan suhu dan kelembaban.
Sebuah gradien termal harus disediakan, dengan ujung dingin dan akhir hangat di mana sumber panas harus ditempatkan. Akhir dingin harus dipertahankan pada 75-85 ° F (27-29 ° C),  dan ujung hangat di 86-92 ° F (30-33 ° C). Suhu seharusnya tidak diperbolehkan untuk naik di atas 95 ° F (35 ° C) atau turun di bawah 75 ° F (24 ° C). Kandang yang terlalu dingin dapat menyebabkan banyak masalah kesehatan, mulai dari non-pencernaan makanan , pneumonia. Suhu yang diperlukan dapat diberikan dari tikar panas, keramik atau bola lampu tertentu atau sistem pemanas alternatif. Semua sumber panas harus dijaga, untuk mencegah luka bakar pada ular, dan digunakan dalam hubungannya dengan termostat untuk mencegah overheating. Kelembaban harus dijaga pada 50%, dan dibesarkan menjadi 70% ketika boa shed. Namun, kelembaban yang tinggi tidak boleh dipertahankan selama lebih dari seminggu, karena hal ini meningkatkan risiko infeksi seperti scale rot. Tingkat Kelembaban dapat dipertahankan dengan semangkuk air, dan dibesarkan dengan menambahkan mangkuk air, memindahkan mangkuk air dekat dengan sumber panas atau pembuatan gerimis  dengan semprotan air. Boa constrictors tidak memerlukan pencahayaan khusus, tetapi harus memiliki sekitar 12 jam cahaya dan 12 jam dari kegelapan setiap hari untuk mensimulasikan lingkungan alam. bola lampu  atau cahaya alami dapat digunakan untuk menyediakan kondisi tersebut.
substrat, umumnya serutan koran atau aspen, cedar yang tidak diobati atau serutan pinus harus dihindari karena mengandung minyak yang beracun bagi ular. Sebuah mangkuk air, untuk menyediakan kelembaban yang memadai dan kaleng koil , harus disediakanatau apa saja dari plastik atau kotak kayu .untuk bersembunyi, memastikan bahwa ular merasa aman, karena stres dapat menyebabkan ular menolak untuk makan. Rak atau cabang sering disediakan sehingga Boas bisa memanjat. Tanaman palsu dan lainnya dekorasi  alami juga sering disediakan.
Boas muda dapat dimulai dengan tikus kecil menengah. Kebanyakan Boas tidak akan memerlukan item mangsa yang lebih besar dari tikus besar, namun beberapa betina besar (8 ft +) mungkin memerlukan kelinci, marmut dan ayam. Aturan umum untuk makan ular adalah bahwa item pakan  yang cocok sesuai ketebalan dari ular pada titik terlebar,seperti ular kebanyakan (termasuk Boa constrictor) sisi kiri dan kanan rahang bawah yang bergabung hanya dengan fleksibel ligamen di ujung anterior, yang memungkinkan terpisah  secara luas, sementara ujung posterior dari tulang rahang bawah mengartikulasikan dengan tulang kuadrat, yang memungkinkan mobilitas lebih lanjut, untuk memungkinkan mengkonsumsi mangsa besar. Ular muda dapat diberikan seminggu sekali. Dewasa hanya perlu diberi makan sekali setiap bulan. Overfeeding (atau powerfeeding) ular dapat menyebabkan sejumlah masalah kesehatan kemudian dan dapat memperpendek umur nya . wajar bagi ular untuk kehilangan nafsu makan mereka ketika shed. Air harus diganti setiap hari atau setiap hari lainnya.
Boas harus ditangani secara teratur untuk menjaga kepatuhan mereka. Namun, Boas besar harus ditangani oleh dua orang, karena ini ular sangat kuat. Ular tidak harus ditangani dalam waktu 48 jam setelah makan, karena resiko regurgitasi, atau ketika dalam siklus shed.

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Economic significance
Boa constrictors are very popular within the exotic pet trade, and have been both captured in the wild and also bred in captivity. Today most captive Boa constrictors are captive bred, however between 1977 and 1983 113,000 live Boa constrictors were imported into the United States. These huge numbers of wild caught snakes have put considerable pressure on some wild populations. Boa constrictors have also been harvested for their meat and skins, and are a common sight at markets within their geographic range. After the reticulated python Boa constrictors are the snake most commonly killed for snake skin products, such as shoes, bags and other items of clothing. In some areas they have an important role in regulating the opossum populations, preventing the potential transmission of leishmaniasis to humans. In other areas they are often let loose within the communities to control the rodent populations.


Boa constrictors sangat populer dalam perdagangan hewan peliharaan eksotis, baik ditangkap di alam liar dan juga dibesarkan di penangkaran. antara tahun 1977 dan 1983 113.000 constrictors Boa hidup diimpor ke Amerika Serikat. Angka-angka yang besar terhadap  ular liar yang tertangkap telah memberikan tekanan yang cukup pada beberapa populasi liar. Boa constrictors juga dipanen untuk daging dan kulit, dan merupakan pemandangan umum di pasar dalam jangkauan geografis mereka. Setelah python reticulated , Boa constrictors adalah ular yang paling sering dibunuh untuk produk kulit ular, seperti sepatu, tas dan barang-barang lainnya. Di beberapa daerah mereka memiliki peran penting dalam mengatur populasi opossum, mencegah potensi penularan leishmaniasis ke manusia. Di daerah lain mereka sering dilepaskan  untuk mengontrol populasi hewan pengerat


T-REC SEMARANG.....KOMUNITAS REPTIL DAN BINATANG EKSOTIK DI SEMARANG